As summer shuffles on, between the sounds of waves crashing at the beach, the sizzling of grills, and the evening chirping of birds and frogs comes the quiet yet insistent wail of the home gardener.

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I ordered a tray of meat at Big Boy’s Bar-B-Que in Sweetwater, 40 miles west of Abilene, and didn’t ask for brisket. I’d been to the joint many times before, and wanted to enjoy the cuts I thought ...